Hair conditioner is a hair care product used to improve the feel, appearance and manageability of hair. Its main purpose is to reduce friction between strands of hair to allow easier brushing or combing, which might otherwise cause damage. Various other benefits are often advertised, such as hair repair, strengthening, or a reduction in split-ends. Conditioners are available in a wide range of forms including viscous liquids, gels and creams as well as thinner lotions and sprays. Hair conditioner is usually used after the hair has been washed with shampoo. It is applied and worked into the hair and may either be washed out a short time later or left in. There are several types of hair conditioner ingredients, differing in composition and functionality:
Moisturizers: whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these contain high proportions of humectants. These could also be provided by natural oils such as almond oil.
Reconstructors: usually containing hydrolyzed protein. Their role is supposedly to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure through polymer crosslinking.
Acidifiers, acidity regulators: which maintain the conditioner's pH at about 3.5. In contact with acidic environment, the hair's somewhat scaly surface tightens up, as the hydrogen bonds between the keratin molecules are strengthened.
Detanglers: which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, or by coating it with polymers, as glossers.
Thermal protectors: usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against excessive heat, caused by blow-drying, curling irons or hot rollers.
Glossers: light-reflecting chemicals which bind to the hair surface. Usually polymers, usually silicones.
Oils: which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and pliable. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFAs (Essential fatty acids) are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contains EFAs).
Surfactants: approximately 97% of hair consists of a protein called keratin. The surface of keratin contains negatively charged amino acids. Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic surfactants, which don't wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends strongly bind to keratin. The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the new hair surface.
Lubricants: such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone.
Sequestrants: for better function in hard water | Antistatic agents | Preservatives.
Sunscreen: for protection against protein degradation and color loss. Currently benzophenone-4 and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate are the two sunscreens most commonly used in hair products. Cinnamidopyltrimonium chloride and a few others are used to a much lesser degree. The common sunscreens used on skin are rarely used for hair products due to their texture and weight effects.
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